Travel Guide - Naoshima Island, Japan
A night at the museum, a day on the island
I cannot pinpoint exactly where I first heard of Benesse Art Site on Naoshima, an island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea. It could have been the Architectural Digest article, did Derek Blasberg post an Instagram there?, or was it while reading about the Kardashian/West fixation with architect Tadao Ando? Regardless, the immersive art and architecture island was on my list as a must-see/do once we confirmed Japan as our honeymoon destination.
Most people know Naoshima for the famous Kusama pumpkin on the pier (pictured below); but the Benesse Art Site is a collective name for all the art and architecture funded by Benesse Holdings Inc. and Fukutake Foundation on the islands of Naoshima and Teshima. The purpose of the immersive island-art experience is to infuse art with nature and to promote the culture of the people who inhabit the island. The philosophy is “Well Being”.
What to See
There are approximately 22 museums or installations on Naoshima and Teshima islands. This includes the Benesse House Museum, the Ando Museum, the Lee Ufan Museum, and the various Art House Projects.
You spend your day shuttling (by bus, walk, or bike) between the galleries and installations across the island. There are little houses in the woods, large fields with outdoor installations, or homes in town with a range of exhibitions and installations. Most are designed by Tadao Ando. We spent as much time admiring the artwork as we did the buildings, standing outside in awe, photographing each concrete corner and its relationship with the horizon, the ocean, and the fading light of the day.
Melanie Masarin, founder of Ghia, wrote about saving a trip to Benesse for a lover; and it makes sense. It is romantic, errie - to walk around a museum in the dark, engaging - to see artworks of scale and intimacy, and fulfilling - to learn so much about art and also the history of Japan and this special island. A trip to the island was also a welcomed break from the hustle and bustle of the mainland cities.
Where to Stay
Benesse Art Site has four buildings in which you can stay: Museum, Oval, Park, and Beach. There are also numerous AirBnbs and other hotels or ryokans on the island. We chose to stay at Benesse in the Museum. This meant that after our dinner at the Terrace Restaurant, we went back to our room in the Museum. We wandered the corridors, the only two in a room with Cy and Basquiat, before going into our room with a view of the ocean.
Getting There
Thank god for Google Maps and the precision of Japanese trains. It was not exactly easy to get to Naoshima from Kyoto and took approximately 3.5hours. (Thank you new husband for being so good at travel coordination). Buy snacks at the station and plan your route before you start:
Kyoto Station > Okayama Station [bullet train]
Okayama Station > Chayamachi Station [local train]
Chayamahi Station > Uno Station [local train]
Uno Port > Naoshima Island [ferry]
Naoshima Island Port to Benesse Art Site [hotel shuttle]
What To Eat
Lunch - Museum Cafe - Think spaghetti, bagels, chicken; I’d advise packing some food to save yourself from spending $60 on a perfectly average lunch
Coffees - Cafe Konnichiwa - Apparently the pancakes are incredible, that is a missed opportunity
Ice Cream - Noashima Gelato - The best treat to beat the heat
Dinner - Terrace Restaurant - We chose Terrace over the Museum Issen and it was certainly the right choice. While the food was good, but not exceptional, the restaurant offered the most incredible setting - you felt as though you were sitting on the ocean, overlooking the beach and setting sun. To get to the restaurant you walk through the Park building, a 7min stroll in a building designed by Ando, complete with installations and paintings, a break outdoors, and then back inside to arrive at your destination.
A quick snap as we sat down at dinner Breakfast - Terrace Restaurant
New husband asked if I would ever go back to Naoshima, or if it was a one and done. I said I would have to go back, if I am lucky enough. To share this island with kids who like art and architecture would be incredible. Benesse Holdings also seems to constantly be expanding and improving the islands. To see what they have planned next would be incredible…