Japan - General Rules & Requirements
Tips & Tricks of the Travelled
Mixing up the Sunday series of restaurants with some travel. This will be the first of several Japan Substacks - restaurants, sites, and shopping to come..!
Japan could not be more popular, a weak yen and advanced economy, direct flights, endless content for the ‘gram, and enough culture to make you wish you minored in Japanese culture & history. The East Asian island country is also dominating on screen as the setting of shows Tokyo Vice (my personal favourite), Shogun, and Pachinko. (*These are also books and are very good, Min Jin Lee’s Pachinko is exceptional).
I hate to generalize, but when the ‘Boomers’ talk of trips to Japan or Asia more broadly, they were guided tours with translators and hired cars - once in a lifetime work experiences, or otherwise prohibitively expensive holidays we could not possibly match. Today, foreign travel is expensive, but it is increasingly easy. With a well-prepared Excel sheet, Google Translate and Maps, this next generation can navigate almost any foreign local.
That said, I did significant research before our trip; admittedly, every day for ~10 minutes as I stretched at the end of my workout I watched videos on Japan. And by videos I mean vlogs on Youtube…Here is a summary of my findings; and the tips we picked up along the way.
To Know Before You Go
Etiquette - Far from an expert on Japanese customs, a few generalizations held true from my social media consumption: (1) Be Quiet - No loud voices on the subway, shouting in the streets, or talking on your phone in queue. (2) Be Patient - Lines are common and orderly, wait your turn, (3) Do not litter - It is offensive.
Transportation
We purchased the JR Rail Pass before going and picked it up at the airport. The cost is ~$700 CAD per person and allowed us travel on all JR lines (bullet trains); from Tokyo - Hakone, Hakone - Kyoto, Kyoto - Tokyo, Kyoto - Uno Port etc.
Was it worth the cost? Given the amount of trips we did, we could have probably saved ~$150 CAD by buying our tickets at each station, for each journey. That said, there is an ease to arriving at the station, knowing you have your ticket already. As well, having the JR Pass allowed us to reserve our seats online, the day before our trip. There are also some local lines that require the JR Pass; or rather, as a holder of the JR Pass, you get a discount for the local line. We did not figure out the rational for this; but again, a vote in favor of the JR Pass.
At the airport, we also purchased, and loaded up, a Suica Pass. We came to love these little cards that allowed us to tap for travel on the subway, for water bottles at the street vending machines throughout Tokyo, and at some convenience stores.
We loaded our cards with $125 CAD each and spent it all. You can also reload in the subway stations.
Restaurant and Attraction Bookings
I could not be more thankful to the Concierges at the Grand Hyatt Roppongi and the Hyatt Regency in Kyoto for helping to book many restaurants and attractions. I have never leaned on hotel staff like this before, and they did not disappoint. Many of the websites for major attractions (like baseball games, Shibuya Sky, Yayoi Kusama Museum) were either poorly translated, or released tickets at predetermined times and therefore a patient local hitting refresh on the site was required (re: time change to Toronto). As well, some smaller restaurants that do not have an Instagram following or a website, and required a local to call to make the reservation. The staff at both hotels could not have been more helpful to arrange our timed, or more niche excursions.
Dress
While I rarely deviate from a jeans and a tee look, I hate sticking out like a sour thumb while travelling. For the most part, the Japanese dress modestly. We were there in June and so it was hot. While I could get away with denim cut offs and some great Emme Parsons in New York in June, I wouldn’t dare show that much leg or walk Tokyo in sandals. Using Uniqo as my look book, I opted for layers, men’s dress shirts, and flowy skirts.
Language
There remains a significant language barrier and as much a I wished I could hand gesture to mutual understanding, the Google Translate app is a good friend to have.
Miscellaneous
Cell Phone Usage - The wifi is not as bad as everyone says it is. Unless you are a content creator, I do not know why you would need a new sim card or a wifi box (as recommended by the many social media stars from their recent trips).
Hotel Charges - There are significant local taxes (service, accommodation) added to your hotel bill. Always read the fine print they say…
Cash or Card? - Cash is necessary for the many markets and street snacks. Cards are accepted almost everywhere (major markets included), but it is still a process to get the wifi connection going… Suggest +$500 CAD per week for your trinkets and treats (to which there are many, so really it depends how hungry you are).
Tipping - It is included, but some deserve a little extra
Jet Lag - The 13 hour difference to Toronto is tough, but as morning persons, we had no complaints waking, working out, and going for a morning coffee stroll before starting our day. We found a regular breakfast spot that opened at 7 AM. Because of the heat, we would take ourselves inside in the afternoons, well rested for a night (ie. early dinner) ahead
Food - There is something for everyone. You do not have to love fish or sushi, but it certainly helps. More on this coming soon
Photo by Complet 2024
So Should You Go?
Japan is a country that, if you live in most part of North America, is half way around the world. It is far and foreign, in language and history.
We toured major cities in Japan (and some rural parts, including an Island); but like any major global city, it is what you make of it. Tokyo, for a city of that size, it is incredible that it functions so seamlessly: the trains run, the masses queue up, there is no garbage on the streets, or people yelling and shouting. It felt safe and orderly. (I think I will be in shock the next time I got to NYC.) There are great art museums, good history museums, restaurants that range from astronomically expensive to street food that makes most places on Dundas West look like imitation robbery.
If you enjoy embracing new culture, have more than a week to spend away, and some disposable income, I would highly recommend a trip to Japan.